PhabrOmeter
Fabric Performance Evaluation
Fabric Hand Measurement
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Comparison of Fabric Hand

3 knit fabrics of T-shirt-type

  • A (GN_PERF_POLO) – 100% polyester;
  • B (KS_SS_POLO) – 94% polyester, 6% spandex;
  • C (MONTAGUT) – 100% polyamide;

3 fabric images under microscope

Test results using PhabrOmeter

  • As no reference fabric was available, RHV values were not calculated.
  • Fabric attributes

Remark: Fabric B is the softest and very stretchy due to spandex; Fabric C (Montagut) is the smoothest one among the three.


Fabric Drape Measurement
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Fabric drape refers to the fabric shape or profile when held at the edge, such as used for curtains, or the way a fabric covers an object when used as a tablecloth or a skirt, often referred to in the latter cases as the fabric formability, and is resulted from fabric’s response towards gravity due to its own weight.

The importance of fabric drape is almost self-evident, but there is still no effective ways to measure this fabric attribute. The Cusick Drapemeter suffers from its low repeatability and low sensitivity, and is hence not widely or frequently used.

The fabric extraction test used by PhabrOmeter is in fact a forced drape so it should be able to describe the fabric dynamic drape behavior. The test results can be used for drape test and comparison.

A client provided 6 fabrics for drape test as specified below:

  • #617 Chiffon Silk – is 100% silk, a lightweight and balanced plain-woven sheer fabric.
  • #75D Chiffon Polyester - 100% polyester, is nearly as light as the silk chiffon #617.
  • #7 Silk Crepe Satin – a 100% silk and smooth satin.
  • #2 Georgette Silk –a 100% silk, a plain weave and lightweight crêpe fabric.
  • #447 Organdy - a stiff fabric of nylon filaments.

The ranking in drape for all 6 fabrics is shown below based on the drape coefficient (DC) tested by PhabrOmeter – a smaller DC value means a more drapeable fabric.

The smaller the value, the well draped fabric.


Comments

The drape value ranking is exactly the same as in the real world. #2 Georgette Silk drapes very fluidly, and falls into soft ripples; #617 Chiffon Silk drapes similar as the Georgette Silk with a beautiful drape; the #75D Chiffon Polyester, though it is nearly as light as silk chiffon but tends to be more stiff to the movements of your finger on it; #7 Silk Crepe Satin with a distinctively crisp, so listed as the fourth; for #447 Organdy, because of its stiffness, its drape is really bad.

Here we also listed the other attributes of these 5 fabric types:

A larger value - a stiffer fabric; A smaller value - a softer fabric; A larger value - a smoother fabric. So #617 Chiffon Silk is the softest fabric, #7 Silk Crepe Satin is the most smooth fabric and #447 Organdy is the stiffest fabric.


The overall performance - we select the worst fabric - #447 Organdy - the stiffest and roughest one as our reference to calculate the overall fabric performance in this group. Please see the following table:


Fabric Wrinkle Recovery Measurement
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Wrinkle resistance and recovery is a major quality concern, especially for cotton fabrics, and the existing test methods are low in sensitivity, and often not correct or reliable.

Fabric wrinkle recovery is determined by the same group of mechanical properties as in fabric hand and drape. During a fabric extraction test, fabric samples experience complex wrinkles yet with high repeatability. Thus, by testing a fabric twice using the present system, with a given recovery time interval between the tests, any differences in terms of the defined fabric hand parameters can be used as indicators of the ability of the fabric to recover from a given wrinkle.

PhabrOmeter creates genuine wrinkle on fabrics, comparable to that in AATCC specifications, and measures fabric wrinkle recovery fast, with reliable and repeatable results, and over wide range of fabric types. As the problems with existing other test methods, no comparison is possible for the data from PhabrOmeter, and only some examples are shown below.


Phabrometer precise determination of wrinkle recovery rates not only can greatly help developing high-quality wrinkle-free finishing auxiliaries, but also we imitating a given product and verify the effective tool of new products.

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